Friday, July 12, 2013

Day 16 - 9 May 2013, Part 2 - Chatsworth House

The rain finally came down on our drive from Castleton to Chatsworth House, not hard, but enough to keep us from touring the gardens. It was around 2 pm. Our light snack in Castleton was gone from our bellies, so we needed some nutritional fortification before we tackled our sojourn into the house. I use the word "house" lightly. Substantial food would be needed, so we ate a nice late lunch at the café on the grounds. After we finished, time to stroll and take it all in.

Since it was closest to the café, we began in the stables. Well, they're not used as stables any more, but rather boutique shops occupy the individual stalls where horses once slept. Rather cool, both the recycling of space and the merchandise offered. There was so much I wanted to buy, so many unique items! Next time, definitely carrying an empty suitcase so I don't have to pass up on all the cool stuff, like locally-made jams and other foods, soaps, beautiful wool blankets made from Peak District sheep . . . you get the idea.

Here are some of the shops we perused. Kinda fancy for horse digs, huh!

When we left the stables to walk to the house, this is what we viewed of the countryside. I love the soft mistiness of the distant hills.

 
Chatsworth House is the home of the 12th Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. Their children were raised in this house and are now grown.
 
 
Certain areas of the house were off-limits, but very little as far as I was concerned. Each room, hallway, and stairwell has so many details with the architecture and furnishings, it doesn't take long to become overwhelmed. We started in the grand foyer. There was no way to take one photo and do this entry justice.

Posted on the wall was a key to the ceiling mural, naming who every person is supposed to be, which is kind of funny because they're all Greek or Roman gods or what have you. Quite sure these beings didn't pose for the artist. It took him two years to complete this masterpiece.


The entire grand foyer. How would you like to "receive guests" here? We climbed those stairs at the end of the room after our necks started cramping.
 
If you look in the photo above, you can see this modern sculpture lit from the chandelier above it at the top of the stairs. With all their antiquities, the 12th Duke and Duchess of Devonshire still like to support modern, living artists.

Just one example of a grandiose staircase.

I don't remember seeing any two door surrounds/pediments alike.

Ceiling mural and statuary of the staircase we climbed.

Looking back down into the grand foyer.

A door surround/pediment made entirely of marble.
 
Looking outside at some of the grounds. It rained the entire time we were there.


A sitting room. I can't tell you how many of these we came across. This is one of many rooms where they would entertain guests.

This is an "office," although they don't use it as such. Notice the two well-worn real thrones against the wall?

 
This is quite fascinating. Notice in the photo above how the door is partially open? The photo below shows what is behind it. It's actually another large door with a smaller door painted on it, and a violin painted on the fake smaller door. All trompe l'oeil (pronounced "tromp-loey," French for "fool the eye"). Looks like you could lift that violin right off the small door, doesn't it? I wonder how many people have tried.

This is one somewhat-small room we walked into off the hall. All the artwork features birds or other wildlife, and they're priceless. Literally. Several are Rembrandts. Others are by various master artists. The intriguing thing is that all of this has been stored away for the past 100 years and is on display in this room for a short time. Then they'll pack it all away again in storage. For another 100 years? They didn't say.



 
One of several hallways. Green striped silk covers the walls, along with more priceless art.

The full crystal chandeliers were exquisite.


Another hallway, this one filled with portraits. I caught Amanda deep in thought. During one of our sojourns down a portrait-filled hallway (not this one), she spied a painting of the mistress of one of the Dukes. I don't remember which one he was, but the story goes like this . . . this mistress was the best friend of the Duke's wife. At some point in their affair, the Duchess found out what was going on and she came to accept it. Later on, after the Duchess died, the Duke married the mistress. Hollywood made a movie about it in the last couple of years, but of course I don't remember the name. 

I loved the inlay on this tabletop.

It was a tad difficult to get proper perspective on this shot as to exactly how LARGE these portraits were. If you look at the eight-feet-tall doors below, that might help. My humble respect to any artist who could paint something this large.



 
A few incredibly gorgeous bedrooms.

The "wallpaper" is hand-painted silk, specifically designed for this bedroom only.


The top just touched the ceiling.
 
This is the family's working office. We weren't allowed in there.
 
This statue was carved out of one piece of marble. Isn't the draping over the face exquisite? Amanda and I both found it unbelievable that the sculptor could make a solid piece of marble look transparent.
 
The dining room. It can seat 40. Yeah, kinda reminded me of home. Not.
The ceiling alone is probably worth more than my house.

Every silver candelabra was different. Can you believe the detail? On another slant, how would you like to polish this stuff? Thanks; I'll pass.


 
There are two fireplaces in the room, and each of the four statues are different.

 
In addition to its incredible beauty, this chandelier put out a lot of heat. I mean, a lot.
 
I wouldn't mind one of these sparklies in my home. Probably still way out of my budget.
 
Just another hallway with a balcony. And a huge, solid brass, five-headed deer candelabra.

Just before we arrived at the gift shop, an elaborate statuary room. I wonder if every Duke and Duchess's "house" contains one of these. I told Amanda I didn't think I'd like to be in this room in the middle of the night. She said it wouldn't bother her. 

This dog's expression, looking up expectantly at his master, was so precious. Oh, to be a sculptor and be able to capture that!

This bust blew me away with its intrinsic detail.

The lion was so real to me, I tried to be extra quiet as I passed him, as if he'd awake and pounce any moment.
 
 
One last little story. I asked one of the docents if there were any "paranormal" (i.e., read "ghost") happenings in the home. She told me of one.
There are security cameras placed strategically throughout the house. One night, a security guard saw on the video screen an unusual bright light near the case of personal belongings of a former Duke. The light moved throughout the room, got close to the case for a while, then disappeared. The security guard went to the room to check on it. Of course there was nothing there. They surmised it may have been the former Duke. The docent also shared that the current Duchess does not like to stay in the house by herself. Well, shoot; can't say that I blame her!
 
I know there are way more photos in this post than probably any of my other posts, but Chatsworth House was so amazing, I couldn't leave anything out. I hope you were able to appreciate it as much as I loved going there.
 
 To top off the day, we returned to Amanda's house, where her dear husband Simon had prepared an absolutely delicious dinner. And I got to meet two of their children. Thanks, Amanda and Simon, for a fantastic day in your neck of the woods!

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